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The rapid melting of Iceland's Sólheimajökull glacier is tangible. When I visited in 2013, our guide punctuated every few steps by saying, "Ten years ago the glacier would have started here .... five years ago the glacier would have started here." Each step in which our feet were greeted by dusty gravel instead of the <span class="soundcite" data-id="319621244" data-start="0" data-end="24582" data-plays="1">crunch</span> of glacial ice gained a funereal air. He wasn't trying to bring us down, he just couldn't help but remark on the beauty that stood before us, the beauty we are losing.

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